Friday, November 14, 2014

Cruise Diary 14: Days 8-11, Nicaragua, Guatemala, Mexico



It would appear that the Pacific side of these countries is more affluent than the Caribbean side. Not that you will want to go house hunting any time soon, but still, not nearly as depressing as what we saw last year.
As noted previously, Costa Rica is proud of its accomplishments and heritage. However, the one constant on this trip is that every guide feels the same way about his (or her) country. It truly irks me when the drum-beaters for “American Exceptionalism” fail to realize that most people, or at least those with a sense of country, believe that their country, too, is exceptional. Those same loud voices are also critical of the trend to eliminate winners and losers, the trophies for all attitude. “We can’t all be winners.”
I get that, but comparing your country to mine isn’t even a parlor game and what rules there may be come from those who want to stack the deck so that their homeland becomes the winner. National pride can’t only be good when it’s ours. Who is to say that we’re better than anyone else? I’d suggest we’d be better off treating our attitude toward our country like golf, and working on just being the best that we can, knowing there is always room for improvement, without the need to “beat” some other country. In the unlikely event that I could beat you (or anyone) in a golf match, it still wouldn’t mean I was any good.
Being better than the competition doesn’t mean you’re good. Being louder than the other side doesn’t mean you’re right. Bob Dylan long ago got it right when he said, “Not to climb up any higher but rather drag you down the hole that he’s in.” We should be cheering these countries as they work to develop their economies, education, social services, etc., even if not always the same way we would prefer. Instead, the American Exceptionalists seem to want to put a ceiling on others’ ambition so that we can wave our foam fingers and shout, “We’re #1!” to justify any action we take. Let’s at least not be offended or surprised when we get a different finger in return.
On a slightly different note, I must admit it was a bit disconcerting to see all the soldiers with big guns on our last two stops. I know I’m in the minority here, but being surrounded by armed people, even if it’s obviously the military doing its job, does NOT make me feel safer. It only makes me wonder when they’re going to use them, and on whom. And if you’re a civilian toting a gun, well, hey, you may know you’re not crazy or a threat to me, but I sure as hell don’t. Quite frankly, your need to display your weaponry is enough to make me wonder.
But back to foreign travel, we remember seeing lots of guns and armed security in Europe, especially Italy, almost 40 years ago. Didn’t make us feel safer then, either.
In any case, we’re happy to be trading the snow at home for the 80+ degree temperatures here, at least temporarily. And now a few random pictures:





Monday, November 10, 2014

Cruise Diary 2014: Day 8, Costa Rica

Costa Rica is clearly several steps ahead of its Central American neighbors. It is a stable democracy with a higher standard of living than any we have seen. Free public education, K-12, is probably the backbone of its progress. Spanish and English are the required languages in school.
Let me digress here for a minute. I confess that the constant drumbeat of negativity towards education and teachers in the U.S. has discouraged me. But I’m starting to wonder where the symphony is coming from, because I have yet to meet, on these cruises, and we’re not talking the hoi polloi, or in my interactions with parents in any school with which I’ve been associated over the last 40+ years, almost anyone who has less than respect and admiration for teachers. Who are the politicians playing, to, exactly, besides themselves and a few well-heeled anti-public education donors? The election results on Proposition 3, which carried exactly zero (0, none, zilch, nada, etc.) counties across the state, indicate at least widespread general support for schools and teachers. Stand tall, my colleagues who continue the battle, and don’t get believe the negative propaganda.
Costa Rica was, and still is, way ahead of the curve on environmental issues. Recycling containers are everywhere, the country generates no carbon-based electricity, they work to protect their environment, and the people seem committed to the process. Who figured this out so far in advance of the rest deserves a medal.
They are proud of the fact that they abolished their army in 1948. I’m guessing they’re counting on us to defend them should someone get frisky, but that cost would almost certainly be less than what we’ve spent on some of the other hot spots in Central America over the past decades.
Costa Ricans also brag about their socialized medicine. If you’re sick, if you need medical attention, you get it. Built into those costs are a pension system. Now I have not done a lot of research, don’t know if it’s sustainable, but it seems as if the country is happy with its direction, and has probably generated fewer protests and riots than even our own.
Their taxes are not low, exactly, but seemingly are lower than Europe and perhaps even ours, in some places. If the information was accurate, you don’t pay income tax until you hit $70,000, and the minimum wage is based on two-weeks wages, about $600, not an hourly minimum. Our guide was stunned when I shared with him McDonald’s advice to its full-time employees: “You’re going to need another job to make a living wage.” Oh, and Wal-Mart is definitely here, but in disguise, running stores under different names.
Draw your own conclusions. I’m not suggesting a utopia – most of the houses, even those that are obviously less than affluent, have bars on the windows and doors to keep out thieves and robbers. But that, at least according to our guide, is generally the extent of crime in the country.
Our excursion was to an active volcano. There are nine of them in Costa Rica, all interconnected as part of the Ring of Fire (not the Johnny Cash song). Only one is conical; not the one we saw. These volcanoes don’t spew lava, like Hawaii and other places, but do emit gasses and even stones when they erupt. Geothermal energy provides about 10% of Costa Rica’s electricity. Lots of earthquakes and tremors, about 500 per year, on average. But a beautiful country.
The last couple pictures show the creativity of their wood-carving artisans. The first is the world’s largest oxcart, beautifully painted and decorated. The last, well, just whimsy on their part and mine.









Sunday, November 9, 2014

Cruise Diary Days 1-6: Awkward Dinner Conversations (Ferguson)





Any hope we had of insulating ourselves from the endless onslaught of Ferguson news and developments was naïve. I don’t mean to diminish its importance, but I confess to a certain level of fatigue as people on both sides of the issue (and, like most issues, it’s polygonal, not really two-sided) beat their respective drums.
One of the things we like about cruising, and I think it’s become the standard, is the chance to dine with a variety of people, different each night and afternoon, from all over the country and the world. The most common icebreaker, of course, is, “Where are you from?” Even non-Americans are aware of the Michael Brown tragedy, and everyone wants to know what is going on. (The red-typeface phrases are links to previous, perhaps relevant, articles from this blog.)
I am quick to remind them that just because I’m from the same metropolitan area that I have no special information, no real expertise. Of course, such a lack of knowledge hasn’t seemed to stop anyone else from offering their perspective, including, of course, some of those who were asking us the question. So-called experts have been weighing in for weeks now, because, in America, knowing what you’re talking about is not a prerequisite for opining. So what follows is, essentially, how I’ve been answering the questions:
It’s a mess and it’s going to continue to be a mess for some time. For me it’s kind of like the recent World Series (and apologies if this analogy seems to trivialize the tragedy, because that’s not my intent). While I didn’t have a team in the hunt, I was aware, did care, and had reasons to root for both sides. So I was interested, if not directly personally vested.
A significant number of my former students are, or have been, in law enforcement. We’re godparents to the daughter of a retired police officer. We are at least indirectly connected to a number of police officers. We understand, at least intellectually, the challenges and pressures of the job. There is a high level of empathy for how difficult that job is, and respect for the importance of the job, if not all individual practitioners. Kind of like teaching in that regard.
I also, as it turns out, taught a cousin of Michael Brown, and I remember her with only positive thoughts, an intelligent young woman. Other formers, students and softball players (mostly African-American, but some white, as well), have been involved in the protests. I know these people to be thoughtful and reasonable. Additionally, while I don’t exactly count Ferguson in their number, I’ve had enough of my own encounters with the 2-bit kingdoms, both north and south, that make up the predatory municipalities in St. Louis County, that it takes no imagination to understand the build up of frustrations of black citizens who constitute the majority of their prey. Empathy there, too. Nor am I so naïve as to believe that racism isn’t a continuing problem, in Ferguson, in St. Louis, in the United States.
It’s pure speculation, added to all the other speculation, but here’s my guess on what may have happened that afternoon. I don’t know; neither do you. I’m not sure that even the grand jury will claim full knowledge after it finishes its deliberations, although I am willing to give them credit for trying to come to a fair conclusion. The important thing: I may be wrong.
Michael Brown seemed to be on the verge of turning his life into something positive. Most important, he, at least, thought so. It may not have been via the traditional route, but he had graduated from high school and was seemingly proud of that. He had enrolled in Vatterott (another predatory institution, IMO, much more interested in its own profits than his future success), which would have opened a least a few doors to a brighter future. (Again, I think those schools open far more doors to bankruptcy or financial distress than personal success, but admit that they have worked for some.) It also seems clear that Mr. Brown had perhaps taken a step backward that day when he was rousted by Officer Darren Wilson.
For whatever reason, however, it would appear he panicked, perhaps out of frustration, perhaps out of the fear of seeing his dreams disintegrate, but no matter the reason, he made the mistake of confronting the officer physically. There seems little doubt that Officer Wilson was hurt; how badly or painfully is beyond my knowledge. But if you’ve even been physically hurt by another, you know that rational thinking can fly out the window quickly. Again, pure speculation, but I’m guessing that out of fear and pain (and I will neither dismiss nor accuse latent racism), the police officer also went into panic mode, with tragic, fatal consequences for Mr. Brown and at least tragic for Officer Wilson.
There are any number of scenarios where this tragedy could have played out differently, with minimal damage to life or property. But in the heat of that particular moment, at that particular time, the result was the ending of Michael Brown’s young life and (probably) Officer Darren Wilson’s career, and, in a sense, life as he knew it, as well. I don’t mean to equate the two, but this tragedy has had, and those numbers might well mount, more than just those named victims.
This is already too long, but a common thread, both at home and on this trip, has been condemnation of “outsiders.” This is, in fact, code for the reverends Al Sharpton and Jesse Jackson. I’m not a big fan, but they have their constituencies and agendas and will play to them. They have their beliefs and codes, are legitimately working to end racism and its attendant problems, and are unlikely to miss an opportunity to promote them (or, it must be admitted, themselves).
But let’s be fair. They are not the only outsiders in play, here. Talking (screaming?) heads on radio and television and yes, social media, are just as much outsiders, just as much pot-stirrers, even if they’re not physically present. Their machinations, their agendas, which they no doubt justify as a response to others, have kept the pot simmering, just waiting for the next opportunity to bubble over in outrage, both feigned and real.
I’ll end with this: finger-pointing, at best, exercises only one muscle, and not a particularly productive one if it’s problem-solving that is our ultimate goal. Clearly, this is a complicated, multi-faceted issue, and not just one simple problem with a simple solution. General rule: the issue or solution that can be distilled to a bumper sticker slogan (or meme) is deserving of only as much consideration as the time it takes to read it.
Back to the cruise – I never really said all this at one time, of course; in most situations I wouldn’t have been allotted that much time from others’ self-promotion, but thanks for sticking with this until the end. I hope you don’t feel so alone now if you’re still not sure what to think.